This blog was first published on the Palatinate website on 6 August, 2010
There’s really only one thing to do in the Lake District. Walk. To bestir oneself off one’s fleshy rear and sally forth into the undulating bosom of Mother Nature herself. If you come looking for nightlife, for Corinthian excess and the frolics and frivolity of summertime then disappointment awaits. The Lake District has still yet to hear of sunshine, it seems, duffel-coated as always in damp, clingy mist. Shops shut unseasonably early. People tromp and stomp along looking painfully walkerish. Residents bray with a countrified burr and rubberised vowel sounds. You would no more see a Waterstone’s in the middle of Keswick as a branch of Blacks in the middle of Trafalgar Square. Alfred Wainwright is a household name. It is all most unsettling. Walking, climbing and bleating, it seems, is all.
Unless. Unless, of course, one is an eager, daffodil-gazing, soppy-eyed, brow-clasping, pink-shirted sort of cove who knows his Wordsworth from his Southey. The sort of spongy waste-of-space who falls into a swoon at the mere sight of a gentle incline. The nails-on-the-board type irritant for whom family walks are a symptom of bourgeois hegemony and Dad holding the compass merely another example of patriarchal oppression.
For these sorts of pirouetting pests there is another escape route. Another priest-hole into which the unwanted can dive for safety. Dove Cottage has a long history of sheltering those pale, well-dressed sorts who feel breathless at the mere mention of peaks, scaling and crampons.
Dove Cottage is, of course, the home of the arch flower-gazer. The field-skipping fop above all field-skipping fops. Mr William Wordsworth. The most famous Romantic poet and the most famous resident of the Lake District. And now something of a cash cow for town councils who’d barely be able to spot a line of anapaestic tetrameter without the most sympathetic of spectacles. Busses, restaurants and endless books emblazoned with the poor man’s name.
Visiting these things can send you into something of a spin. It is only when eyeing up the place that those myths of lettuce-leaf spinelessness still hovering around Romanticism shatter. You realize what the outdoors and nature must have represented to them, plunged as they were in the late eighteenth century gloom. The roofs were low and windows sparse. The change when Wordsworth and Coleridge blubbed their way through the heaths and heather would have been truly sonnet-worthy, a complete gear-shift from the shadowy enclosure of life indoors. It is all, not to put too fine a point on it, rather intriguing. During the tour we were chatted round by a pony-tailed young neo-Romantic who pointed out Wordsworth’s chair, his travelling case, his bed, the scales of Thomas de Quincey and the washing chest where the pioneer of Romanticism pampered and preened of a morning.
But that wasn’t it. Far from it, indeed: merely an intriguing aperitif. As I pottered aimlessly up from the shop to the museum a trio of elderly folk bobbed up in my wake, led by a large, crinkle-faced fellow accoutred in a pleasingly Gandalfian mackintosh. I snatched a quick glance behind only to jerk slightly. If there is one mane of hair (machined-washed white and carelessly plumed) that all card-carrying Keatsians, all Shelley-spouting spongers would recognize in the dark it was this one. And then they started muttering to themselves. Pure Irish. The low, gravelled, sonorous sound of the greatest living poet in the English language merely yards away from me. Seamus Heaney. Famous Seamus himself!
An intriguing occurrence I thought? Or not…Maybe many of you are sick to death of bumping into Nobel Prize Winners and other Madonnas of the mind. For you it is the oldest of hat. More than likely, perhaps. Some Oxonians probably can’t shake off Geoffrey Hill or feel the faint onset of queasiness as Richard Dawkins rounds the corner, the former Simonyi Professor collaring them irksomely in the danger-spot of North Oxford. For all I know even the word Lucasian still bears unwelcome baggage for a handful of loyal Cantabrigians, eliciting weary moans at the thought of Professor Hawking espying them over the shelves of Border’s popular science section.
For me, however, it was something of an occasion. I thought it impolite to stare and so continued on my way while Heaney was welcomed warmly by a member of the Dove Cottage staff. I was clearly the trendsetter, however, as he proceeded to follow me into the small museum room. A nervous silence reigned. I commandeered the left hand side while Dr Heaney pulled up a chair on the right.
Even now I don’t think I alone imagined a faint unease on the great man’s face, the slight quiver of the upper lip or nervy movements of the hands. Understandable, I suppose. As an avid reader of the two small-press magazines my poetic attempts have graced thus far, he’s probably realized for some time that the game is up. He will have read the free-verse sprawl of ‘Park’, my debut masterpiece, and choked back tears of envy at the combustible new aesthetic initiated by what many have called the Dunciad of the third millennium: none other than my sprightly, Betjeman-esque lyric skip ‘Mr Chaucer’ topped off with some Eliotic border work.
In fact, thinking back, it was almost ceremonial the way he squirmed uneasily in his chair, readying himself for his imminent dethroning as the greatest poet in the language. His successor standing yards away, Bolingbroke enacting a poetic toppling of Richard II. At one point I thought about congratulating him on ‘Digging’, perhaps mentioning how much I’d learnt from North, but then realized this was no time for letting one’s guard down. In the Bloomian, Oedipal struggle for poetic supremacy little mercy can be shown. I rebuffed his grandfatherly smiles. I knew him not, misreading every whimpering cough and unsaid plea. If pushed, I suppose one might call it the baton-passing moment for post-post-modern poetry. Both of us, sipping from the Wordsworthian fount: he the John the Baptist presaging my arrival.
But I couldn’t keep it up. Just as I thought of leaving, I relented. I swallowed my pride whole for one last time and went to ask him for his autograph. He smiled, benevolently but with obvious sadness, scribbling his name, date and location. Then, for a few precious seconds, we locked in eye-to-eye: a Marlowe-Shakespeare, Amadeus-Mozart sort of a moment. As he handed back the card it seemed as if he was handing me the key to something more, to be amongst the poets truly.
I wandered out, clasping it to my breast and knowing with a full stop here and a heroic couplet there the peaks of Parnassus could be mine. But then came an alarm bell, a dreaded siren call, the sight of walking boots and jackets being unloaded from the car: symptoms the only diagnosis of which was another enforced walk en famille.
AIas, I wasn’t built for such things, and so, to this day, all I know is that somewhere among the gauze and grass, the heathery peaks and crags of the Lake District, lies the mislaid key to poetic immortality. Lost for a generation. It seems, perhaps, that I’m not genetically primed for such literary feats after all. Some future Wordsworth more fit for duty than I will find it couched beneath the rocky stubble and finally hear the call of Calliope.
As for me…at least I can say I once met Seamus Heaney